One Of The Best Days Ever


Thailand is known for its elephants and nowhere in Thailand can you find more opportunities to experience the elephants than in Chiang Mai.  Unfortunately not all of these tourist opportunities have been created with the best interest of the elephants in mind and the Thai elephant population has suffered because of this.

When we decided to visit Chiang Mai we knew we wanted to do an elephant experience, but only if we could be part of something that was as good for the elephants as it was for us. After numerous hours of research, reading and chatting with people online, we settled on Patara Elephant Farm in the mountains outside Chiang Mai.  From the moment we booked our time at Patara we couldn’t wait to get there.
We were up early that morning in order to have breakfast and be ready in time for the pick-up from our inn.  Jack drove us to Patara from our inn, stopping along the way to pick up a couple in Chiang Mai.  About an hour later we were in the mountains. Dense vegetation and windy roads meant you couldn’t see much beyond the road, but eventually we rounded a curve and as we approached Patara you could see the grass fields and the beautiful land of the facility. 

Jack led us to a main gathering area where we were introduced to two mother elephants and their two babies.  Let me just say that yes, we signed up for an elephant experience and yes we boarded Jack’s van that morning knowing we were going to an elephant experience, however getting out of the car and walking across a field to four very inquisitive elephants who want to know who you are and if you would like to play with them, isn’t something you can really prepare for.  The mothers were patient and kind while the babies were rambunctious, playful and powerful despite being less than 6 months old.  
We were given grass to feed them and time to spend with them.  At the time we thought this was just keeping us occupied while the staff got things ready for the day.  However, looking back I think this time was for us to get comfortable with the elephants.   I mean who couldn’t help but fall in love with these little elephants and become comfortable with the situation?

Patara’s experience is called Elephant Caregiver for a day and they take it very seriously.  After getting to know the mothers and their babies, we were sat down for a brief intro discussion from Pat, the owner.  We learned about Patara, how they are different from other elephant facilities in the Chiang Mai region and what their goal is.  They explained their goal for breeding and introducing domesticated elephants back into the wild. From there we hiked out to the area where our elephants live.  We stopped along the way to gather grass from the field workers, to feed to our elephants.  Once we arrived we were each assigned to an elephant and their trainer.  And just like that we became elephant caregivers for the day.

My elephant was an eight year old male and Alan had a female as well as her 5 month old baby.  I won’t even attempt to write their names, since there is no way I will come close to getting them right.  First we introduced ourselves to the elephants, approaching them with instructions and commands from the trainers, we made sure they were ok with us and that their demeanor stayed calm and happy.  Next it was feeding time.  Breakfast consisted of small banana type fruit (tasted different though, yes we tried them) and sugar cane (yes we tried that as well).  And each piece we fed to them one by one.  Using the commands to “open wide” and keeping them happy and calm with reassuring “good job” as we went along.  Of course these elephants speak Thai so we had to learn each of the commands in Thai. 






 After feeding and getting to know our elephants, it was time for a lesson on healthcare checks.  Healthy elephants sleep laying down and they alternate sides during the night.  So, first you have to check and make sure that an elephant is dirty on both sides.  

Then you have to sweep it.  Yep, sweep it.  Gotta get the dirt and debris off before you get them wet, otherwise you’ll have a real mess on your hands!  Then you have to make sure they are sweating, another sign of their health.  Any guesses on where an elephant sweats from???? Around their toenails!  They should have a damp ring around the cuticle type area of the toenail.  And, how do you check the toenails?  You get underneath them and run your finger along the edge of the toenail.  Do you know what’s more intimidating than being next to an elephant? Being underneath one!



And the final step in the daily health check is the poo check.  Yep, that’s right.  The best way to make sure that everything inside is working correctly is to check what comes out.  They explained all the details on how it should have water run out when you squeeze it and how the “pieces” that come out should be similar in size and there should be at least five of them, but honestly all I heard was “you have to smell it”.  And all I could think was, there is no way I am smelling elephant poo!  Well I figured someone else would bow out and then so could I, but being the last to go, after no one else skipped their turn I couldn’t  be the only one that refused, so I did it.  And honestly it smelled like grass.  Turns out that a healthy elephant doesn’t eat anything but grass and some fruits so there really isn’t anything to make it stink.  Thank goodness!

Next was bath time.  This was one of the best parts of the day! We led our elephants down to the river and as they laid or kneeled in the water we used a scrub brush to clean them from top to bottom.  Let me tell you, bathing an elephant is no easy feat, but wow, is it amazing! The trainers were there every step of the way to make sure you got every last part and show us how to take care of areas such as around the eyes, the ears and even the tusks!



 After they had been scrubbed and scoured it was time to rinse them.   Big elephants and little buckets, meant this took a while.  Thank goodness they returned the favor!


After all the hard work it time to learn how to get up on top of our elephants and go for a ride.  All of the elephants had ropes around their midsection for us to hold on to for stability.  Of course, I held on pretty much the entire ride and Alan never held on once.  (You may notice in some of the pictures that Alan's elephant also had a chain that it carried.  Elephants are herd animals and since these elephants live out on a plantation and are not fenced in they would naturally roam as herd.  Patara keeps one animal in each herd on a chain at night, so that the entire heard will stay in their camp and not wander into the mountains or nearby villages.  The chain is loosely around their ankle and long enough for them to be able to roam, without leaving the plantation.)
Once we were on our way and we got use to the height and swagger of the elephant, it was the most peaceful experience ever.  The elephants are so large and you might think they are almost clumsy or akward.  However, they are just the opposite.  Very meticulous about each step and almost graceful.  


We rode for awhile, until we arrived at a waterfall.  Needless to say everyone was ready for refreshment! The staff had a beautiful picnic lunch set up for us on this beautiful bamboo platform over the waterfall.  
While we ate, the elephants filled up on fresh water




Once we were finished eating it was time for a little swimming. The elephants loved the water and pretty much just hung out and let us climb on and enjoy riding through the water.  The babies were a little more adventurous and got a little feisty during the swim time.  My favorite line from the trainers to Alan was "watch your leg, the babies like to get your legs."  He quickly figured out what they meant!



After we got dried off and back in our clothes it was time for the ride back to Patara.  









We took a different route back and we got to see how well elephants can climb.  



One last creek crossing and we were back at the Patara facility.

 After we got back to the area where we had started the day we had time to hang out with our elephants, take more pictures and have a few closing words from Pat.  The trainers also spent a few minutes choosing a "care giver of the day" and luckily I was chosen from our group.  Our "prize" was a kiss from our elephant.


 
It was the weirdest feeling kiss I've ever had!

  Elephants give messy kisses!

 Pat's closing words gave us a chance to reflect back on the day and the bigger picture of elephant preservation.  Patara lives by the mantra that extinction is forever and never will that thought hurt your heart more than when you have fallen in love with these amazing creatures.

I am not an animal person by nature.  I love my cat and would love to have a dog, but I am not drawn to animals in general.  So, I was not prepared to be so captivated by the elephants.  They are such a large and somewhat intimidating animal, yet when you come to them with love they return it.  They are so kind and gentle.  Each has a personality and they let it show.  And the more time we spent with them the more we realized they are very much like humans.  

Pat's last bit of advice to us was something I will always remember: live like an elephant.  Elephants never rush in to anything, they think through each step (in every aspect) they take and make sure it is wise and safe.  If only everyone could have the opportunity to spend a day at Patara.  The world would be a much better place if we all lived like an elephant.
Photo Friday

This week I decided to post my favorite photo from Chiang Mai for Photo Friday.  However, I didn't realize just how difficult that would be, so I'm posting two instead of just one today.

These may not be what you expected to see as my favorite photos.  As I scanned all the pictures from Chiang Mai I realized the photos I stopped and reminisced on were not of beautiful temples or landscapes, they were ones that were more simple.


Alan signing the prayer cloth for the Temple on Doi Suthep.  Amazing to know that our names will be wrapped around this temple soon.

Young Monks lining up. Most males spend some time training as a monk, even if they decide to not become a Monk as an adult. I loved seeing young Monks throughout Thailand and observing how reverent they were in their practices, but when they had downtime they played just like any child their age.  I wonder if the fact that Thai people are so rooted in their religion is much of the reason they are so kind.
Chiang Mai


We spent 5 days in the Chiang Mai region of Thailand.  The first day we decided to see the Old City and Alan drove us on a scooter from Bo Sang to Chiang Mai.  At first I was scared to death.  It was bad enough that we were driving on the "wrong" side of the road, but traffic in Thailand is intense.  However, he did a great job with the scooter and we had a great time exploring.  

Here are a few pictures from the various places we visited in the Old City:


Wat Pra Singh




random lunch spot



Wat Chedi Luang




Our second day took us up into the mountains to visit  Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. But you can't see the temple until you climb the 309 steps!










 Of course this day included a random lunch stop as well.  Notice the father is doing the prep work and the 10 year old is doing the cooking, she was also our server.


We ended the day at the night market, where we shopped until it was time for the last bus out of town.




Straight to Bo Sang


We landed in Chiang Mai, Thailand around 11:15 pm and by the time we got through customs and picked up our bags, we were close to midnight.  We had booked our stay at an Inn that provided airport pick up, so we knew that somewhere along the way we should find a man named Peter, ready to drive us "home".  Sure enough Peter was there holding a sign with our names on it and thanks to being in a country where you can still park at the door of baggage claim, we were on our way within a matter of minutes.

As soon as we stepped foot outside the airport the heat hit us like a wet blanket, even at midnight. And right away you meet the "smell" of Thailand, a scent you seem to pick up throughout the country.  It's a mixture of the spices and sauces they use for cooking.  You would expect to only find a smell like that around a restaurant or maybe even a residential area during dinner time.  But thanks to the fact that Thai's don't really adhere to the typical American meal schedule and the fact that anyone who can find an empty area and has a pot and something to make fire with can have a "restaurant", the smell of food is constant.

The Inn was about 12 kilometers outside the Chiang Mai city. However with the airport being on the exact opposite side of the city it meant we had about a 30 minute drive.  As we circled Chiang Mai we could see the lights and started to realize how big Chiang Mai really is.  Then we started going away from the city and we started to see that we had truly landed in a different world.  As we got closer to the Inn we realized that even though it was past midnight families were still out at street side food stalls eating, playing games, etc. And as we arrived in Bo Sang, the town we would be staying in, and made our way through the neighborhood where the inn was located, we started to realize that this stay was really going to be an experience.
Making It To The Other Side Of The World

So flights to Europe are around 8-9 hours.  It'll take you a little longer to get to Eastern Europe and a few hours more to get to China.  However, to get to Thailand it meant 21 hours on a plane, straight!  Depending on what airline you choose and what city you leave from there are many ways to get to Thailand.  However, being committed to Delta airlines like we are and leaving from Atlanta, the busiest airport in the world, we were lucky to get to take Korean Air.  

Now, you may say, airlines are all the same, the only difference is whether you get pretzels, peanuts, or nothing at all.  Well folks, that is pretty much only true in the good ole U.S.A. European and Asian airlines still have this thing called customer service and I'm convinced that no one does flying as well as Korean Air.  

Alan left the day before I did and spent a 1 and a half day layover in Seoul, Korea. He got to sleep off his jet lag a little and spend a day exploring Seoul.  I was super jealous of his extra stop and even though I have seen the pictures he took, he'll have to write about that experience on his own.

So, when it was finally my turn to head out I was on my own until Korea. I was waiting at the gate in Atlanta, with the hundreds of people that fill one of those enormous planes, and all of a sudden everyone slowly stopped what they were doing and turned to face the walkway area of the terminal.  Turns out the Korean Air flight staff were approaching the gate and it was like something out of a movie.  In a perfect single file line, with beautiful uniforms and neatly pulled back hair, what appeared to be porcelain dolls made their way on to the plane.  Now, I wasn't around back in the day when people saw flying as something special and got dressed up for the occasion, but after seeing the Korean Air flight staff, I can only imagine it was something like that.  And that was just the beginning.  For 17.5 hours that crew took care of everything from making sure I had my gluten free meals (a flight that long meant 4 meals) to keeping everyone's wine glasses full, to pacing the aisles soothing unhappy babies.  It was amazing to see them take ownership of the flight the way they did. And for the first time when I have left the flight and said "Thank you" to the crew on my out, I honestly meant it.

Alan and I met up in Seoul and spent a short layover in the Priority Club before getting back on a plane and finishing out the journey. I have to say, that the last 3 hours of the 21 were the hardest.  I've never wanted to get up and walk around so badly, I was more than ready for our adventure to begin.  Little did I know that when I stepped off that plane I was going to quickly realize that flying for 21 hours really does land you on the other side of the world.
The Other Side of The World


Alan and I have traveled to some truly amazing places in the past 10 years.  And while each place we visit teaches us something or leaves it's mark on us in someway, very few places have come close to our most recent adventure.

Last month Alan and I spent 15 days in Thailand.  After having fallen in love with Asia during our visits to Japan and China, we've been longing to go back to Asia, and Thailand was our first choice.

Putting a 15 day trip into words would be hard, no matter where we had been, but the experiences we had on this trip makes it even more difficult.

So, I'm going to break this "trip report" into several posts.  Otherwise, no one, including me, would want to read it!

To get started I've outlined a map with where we based ourselves along the way (look for the red boxes):
#1 - Chiang Mai
#2 - Koh Sumai
#3 - Bangkok



Now, where do I begin...

Photo Friday

How to pack two adults for 15 days of travel and only use two suitcases (or in our case, backpacks!)


Alan and I are off to Thailand for 15 days of travel and adventure.  We are so excited and can't wait to take off!